Usually the destination is the ends and the transportation is the means, but a Kandy to Ella train adventure flips that script. When you take a train that zig-zags through some of the most beautiful scenery in the world and the train has open windows and doors, that makes the train ride the destination in of itself. It also does not hurt that both Ella and Kandy are beautiful spots in Sri Lanka with tons of things to do.
Kandy to Ella train ride the most iconic adventure activity in the country
If you follow any travelers on Instagram, then you probably have seen an influencer or two hanging out windows and/or doors over lush vegetation in Sri Lanka. The Ella to Kandy train ride is why many come to Sri Lanka. It is the most iconic adventure activity in the country. Seeing leopards in Yala National Park and ocean activities come close, but just about everyone that comes to Sri Lanka does this train ride. It does get a little cool in the highlands, so this may be the only place in Sri Lanka where one sees people wearing hoodies.
Related: Proboscis monkeys in Bako National Park photo essay
I booked a second class car on the Sri Lanka Railway website
There are a ton of in depth blog posts and Youtube videos out there with tips, explanations, and step-by-step on the different options travelers have for this trip. I am not going to do that here. I booked a second class cabin out of Kandy for Ella. It was awesome, and I highly recommend this option. I prefer to pre-book for trains and have my own guaranteed seat, so that is what I did. The second class seat was a little over $5.00. I booked my seat the day before, but I was traveling in the low season, so you may want to book in advance during the high season.
It does not really matter which side you sit on
The word on the internet is it is best to book sides on the right of the train going from Kandy to Ella and vice-versa if going from Ella to Kandy. I was a little disappointed to find my Kandy to Ella seat on the left; however, it soon really did not matter. It is true that the better views are on the right, but there were many good views on the left too. In general, the wide vistas are on the right overlooking mountain valleys, and the mountain side is on the left. On the positive side for the other side is there are more waterfalls on that side.
At first, people got out of their seat and sat in the open doorways. Some people would allow other travelers to take turn while others bogarted that spot. In the end though, the train ride from Kandy to Ella is over seven hours, so no one is going to hang out in the doorways the whole seven hours. There are plenty of opportunities for everyone to take pictures from both sides. It is a little more convenient if you are on the right as you can open your window and take photos from your seat, but you can always take photos out the open doors on the other side. Just be patient as there are incredible views the whole way, so everyone will get those instagrammable shots.
Great to travel in Sri Lanka in the low season
Being a teacher from the United States, I was on this trip during our summer in July. It is the low season for travel, so the train was half full. I had no one sitting next to me until the last stop going towards Ella. Hotel and hostel rates can be found at a bargain during this time, so Sri Lanka was even more affordable than usual.
Kandy to Ella train weather was cloudy with intermittent showers
I think the weather along this stretch is always foggy, cloudy, and sometimes rainy. When it did rain, it did not last for long and would clear up although we did not see the sun. The weather was not a problem, and in fact, the fogginess just added to the beauty. The rain gave us a reason to pause taking photographs for a few minutes before the scenery became incredible again.
The Kandy to Ella train rooted in Sri Lanka’s colonial past
The British government built the train system starting in 1864 to export the tea from the tea plantations in the Central Highlands to the capital. I am sure they still use the trains for tea export because they still plant tea in the highlands, but now the main purpose of the train line is to shuttle locals and tourists.
Sri Lanka trains are a national obsession
It is not just tourists who come to Sri Lanka to enjoy the trains. Many locals also travel via the train especially in the third class. Even the locals not riding the train are infatuated by the train. I saw many people along the way who would wave to us and many locals taking pictures or video of our train as it zoomed by. The trains are beautiful as they seem to be a mix of modern and historic. The train I took was a special tourist train, so it was newer and more sleek. The older ones are brown or red, but also pretty cool looking.
Getting out at Ella is not the end of the train tourism
Once the train arrived at Ella, this did not mean the fascination on train tourism ended. Just a twenty to thirty minute walk outside of Ella is the famous Nine Arches Bridge. This was super close to the Bunk Station Hostel where I stayed, so it was a convenient walk away. This destination deserves it own post, so until then.
Adventure On!