When researching lodging options for the Guyana Rupunini, the hammock in a benab for $10.00 immediately stood out. The Oasis near the Rock View Lodge in Annai, offers this option for those passing through on the Georgetown-Lethem Road.
I am set up for success in a benab
A closer look inside the benab
What is a benab
A benab is a gazebo like shelter, which seems to be unique to this area of the world. It appears to come from the Amerindian or indigenous culture. A benab has a pole in the middle, a roof, a domed top, and no walls. The pole and the outer rim of the ceiling have rings for hanging hammocks. See the picture above for my luxurious room.
Hammock and benab is the budget option in Guyana
Lodging is not cheap in Guyana. Even guesthouses can run $20.00 with hotels running anywhere from $50.00 to $150.00 a night. I spent $180.00 the night before at Rock View Lodge which included a guide, three meals, and use of a swimming pool, but even with those amenities it was still très chère. After this recent lack of economy, I needed a budget option for a night, so I jumped on the hammock option.
You would think people would be lining up to stay in the benab, but traffic was light on the Georgetown-Lethem Road
Interesting evening in the Rupunini
I was dropped off at the Oasis at 4 p.m. and my hammock was already hanging. Colin Edwards from Rockview Lodge instructed his staff to make sure the hammock was on the opposite side of the benab from the coming possible storms. I took one look at the hammock and saw it was on the southern side of the benab. A storm had come through that afternoon when I was eating lunch at Rock View and it had come from that side, so I moved the hammock to the other side.
I then spent an interesting evening at the Oasis, where it seemed the world was passing me by. Soon those people did pass me by, and I was alone. It was just me, my hammock, and my benab.
This post is the last in a three part adventure or misadventure in the Guyana Rupunini. Read the other parts here. The posts can be read in order or they can be read individually:
Read Part I: Feeling like an ass in the Guyana Rupunini Savannah
Part II: A night in the Guyana Rupunini Oasis Service Center
Part III: The whole world will pass you by at the Guyana Oasis
A benab is a unique lodging choice
The benab was in close proximity to a village. Just across the fence were a few houses. People looked at me quixotically as I set up my hammock. My hammock was the only one in the benab that night. I wondered how many people use the hammock option. I asked a couple of young ladies I met at the Oasis if they had ever seen anyone in the benab. They said I was the first and they had lived in Annai for three months.
The benab and surrounding houses
When it was time for bed I ordered two Bank’s beers from the Oasis and headed toward my home for the night. I sat on the front steps by myself and looked at the marvelous starry sky and felt how lucky I was. Here I was in the interior of Guyana near the equator all by myself, and I loved it. After I consumed my two beers, I went back to the Oasis and ordered two more. I did not want the experience to end.
Even an evening storm did not put a damper on my benab experience
Sure enough in the middle of the night a storm came through. The storm came from the side to where I moved the hammock. Apparently the storm that came through during lunch time was not from where the prevailing winds come from. The person who hung the hammock knew what he was doing. Lesson here is not to question locals about where to hang the hammock.
The hammock moved to the other side of the benab as darkness takes over
I woke up and quickly moved the hammock over to the other side. The hooks and loops made this transition quite easy. The hooks also proved quite convenient for hanging my other belongings including my fanny pack as water began to seep in over the cement floor.
Hooks convenient for hanging hammocks and other items when it rains
One thing the storm did do is cool things off quite considerably. I was now snug in my hammock with a blanket and enjoyed the cool breeze filtering through the open structure. I had a mosquito netting to protect me from the bugs, and I stayed dry.
My sexy legs nice and cozy in the hammock under the mosquito netting
Had a great night’s sleep
I slept fairly well and woke up the next morning refreshed. I also spent $165.00 less than the night before, so my wallet felt refreshed too. Benabs seem to be quite common in the country as I had seen more than a few. It would be an interesting way to budget travel through the country.
A benab spotted in the Botanical Gardens in Georgetown
Our lovable structure found by the Seawall in Georgetown
You could easily buy a hammock and mosquito netting in Georgetown and travel the country from benab to benab. Then you too could be just a man/or woman, a benab, and a hammock in Guyana. I give the experience two thumbs up.
A night in the benab gets two thumbs up from me and my wallet – Notice the hammock back to its original side
Adventure on!
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Roughin it in Guyana…great price…
Cheers…
Charles Higgins recently posted..Palms resort in Vegas fined $1 million for drugs & prostitution complaints
You cannot beat $10.00 a night.
That hammock does look comfy. I’d be nervous sleeping in that benab all by myself. But for that price, I might have to tough it out.
Francesca recently posted..As 39 approaches
You would not have anything to worry about. The locals are mostly Amerindians. They are super nice people. They also do have a security guy at the Oasis that keeps an eye on things. I never saw him, but I think he loves near the entrance.
we thought we were pretty adventurous, but not sure how we’d fair in a hammock for the evening. depends how many beverages we consume beforehand. yes, yes, thats the key we think.
thelazytravelers recently posted..no travel required
It was pretty comfortable and the mosquito netting and the breeze kept the bugs out, so I almost felt like I was inside until it started raining, and I was on the wrong side. Once I readjusted, I was fine.
Confession – I flew home with a hammock all the way from Merida, Mexico and haven’t used it once! I guess the weather in Ireland had other ideas!
Fiona recently posted..A History of Prague via INXS
You should bring it to Guyana and hang it in a benab.
Well…this is the one of the coolest things I’ve ever read. Seriously. Would I do it. Never in a million years. You’re amazing Traveling Ted.
D.J. – The World of Deej recently posted..The Queen Victoria Room at Victoria & Albert’s – The Best Meal of My Life
Thanks Deej,
It really was pretty safe and comfortable once I got on the right side of the benab.
I had no idea what a benab was.. it looks like a cool place to chill out but I don’t know if I’d be able to sleep in it.. especially through a storm. LOL
Kieu ~ GQ trippin recently posted..Beautiful Lake Bled
I have never heard the before. I think it is pretty unique to Guyana and possibly Trinidad.
Oh my, I didnt know these existed – and sounds like an experience you really enjoyed!
@mrsoaroundworld recently posted..Photos of the Week – Snow and Ice #FriFotos
Unless you have been to Guyana, you would have never come across them. It was a fun experience.
I was impressed with myself for camping in Africa, but now I see there is something else to conquer. Not sure I could do it, but who knows where my adventures will take me. Either way, I think you’re brave!!
The World Wanderer recently posted..The Mortuary Temple of Queen Hatshepsut: Photo Essay.
Thanks Erin,
It was pretty comfortable under the mosquito netting and under the benab. I felt as safe as a tent.
I love hammocks, having grown up in the tropics, but to nap or swing but not to sleep overnight – at least not in the open – I am not that trusting of humankind!! The mosquito net though would be key if I ever did it!
It if funny you mention mankind as the fear because most people would fear the elements. I agree though you have more to fear from humans than animals most of the time; however, the Guyana interior is one of the safest places. The Amerindian Indians are the largest block of people and they are incredibly affable.
You got some great gams, Ted. I’m hoping those will make more appearances in your posts.
Leah Travels recently posted..Another Bite out of the Bittersweet Big Apple
Thanks Leah,
They will reappear.
You know, I’d be down for accommodations like that. Why the heck not?! I’ve never slept in a hammock before, not even in a back yard.
Pola (@jettingaround) recently posted..Discovering Baja California Wine Country, Mexico
Ted, you are so lucky. I’ve wanted to see Guyana for so long. It looks beautiful. Take us with you next time!
Tawny of Captain and Clark recently posted..How to survive a Korean drinking experience.
I’ve been looking into this exact same experience in Guyana for my husband and myself and was intrigued by the hammock idea. I’m glad I came across your post.
Do people who opt to hire a hammock have access to showers and toilets? My understanding from your post was that we can go to the restaurant to eat.
I stayed at Rock View Lodge the night before, and I was able to use a shower there the next day. If you don’t stay at the Oasis or Rock View, you would not have access to showers, but I am sure you could arrange something with either place. I am sure you could buy access to showers for a decent price or they might allow you to use it for free since you are paying for the benab and for meals. I would email Rock View if you plan to stay there to see about that.
Two thumbs up… it must have been really great then, Ted 🙂 I imagine that the breeze was amazing and even better than air condition. In Asia, I’ve always wanted to try and sleep outside in a hammock, but the bugs and weather have kept me from doing so. It looks like fun.
Miriam of Adventurous Miriam recently posted..20 amazing things to do in Bali
It was a great experience. I would love to travel Guyana with a hammock and just go from benab to benab. The mosquito netting and the breeze kept me safe from the critters. Even with mosquito netting this is not always the case. One night camping in Michigan I was in a swampy area with tons of voracious mosquitoes. They buzzed around the outside of the netting all night right near my ears. Worst night of sleep ever.
Thanks Ted,
I laughed through several of your posts. I started with your post on safety in Guyana. I’ve spent many a comfortable night in a hammock. Sounds like Guyana is my kind of place! Thanks for posting.
Ted, I really appreciate all the pictures with your great accounts. I do have a problem with this particular story. Let’s suppose that someone from South Africa (or any other country, really) came to the USA and posted on his travel blog about all the forests we have here in the USA and said that if you combine those forests with these roofed structures in our public parks, a person could get around the entire USA sleeping cheaply in hammocks and sleeping bags. A lot of American parks have roofed structures, but the vast majority are either gazebos or community kitchen/BBQ/picnic areas. We wouldn’t really welcome sleeping bags or hammocks hung up or rolled out wherever someone desired. I don’t think the Guyanese really would like people to sleep in a gazebo in the botanical gardens or in the bandstand near the seawall. I grew up in Guyana and used to play around that bandstand and listened to the Guyanese national anthem played from it. Inviting oneself to hang a hammock there wouldn’t be appropriate at all. One giveaway in the difference in structures is a lack of a center pole in the two structures in Georgetown. No one in their right mind would hang a hammock on two beams on the outer rim of a structure if there was any chance of rain. Another tip: next time you sleep in a hammock, try lying diagonally. You’ll actually sleep fairly horizontally and will be way more comfortable.