Traveling Ted is a blog that takes readers along on my adventures hiking, canoeing, skiing, and international backpacking. Many blogs focus on one aspect of backpacking, but I tackle both the outdoor adventure side and international exploration as well.

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I had earmarked the Guyana Rupunini Savannah near Annai as the place in the interior for adventure. When I arrived, I discovered the savannah was an arid dry place and quite far from the rainforests I had hoped to explore. I was able to take a trip into the nearby Iwokrama Rainforest, but it was quite expensive to do by myself.

Panoramic Nature Trail Rupunini

Guyana Rupunini savannah- The dry savannah gives way to trees

Rockview Lodge in the Guyana Rupunini savannah

The first day I stayed at the Rock View Lodge in Annai I asked Gabe, who initially showed me around the lodge, what types of wildlife I would find in the Rupunini. He said not much, just some asses and on rare occasions an anteater.

I am a big fan of beautiful asses, but these are not the ones I had in mind. In fact, I was feeling like an ass for coming halfway across the hemisphere to see donkeys in a parched field.

Guyana asses

Guyana Rupunini savannah – Not the asses I had in mind when traveling halfway across the hemisphere

Panorama Nature Trail

There was one place to hike nearby. The Panorama Nature Trail went up a trail in the nearby hills and overlooked the Rupunini Savannah. It may not beat the rainforest, but it was something to do while staying in this thirsty piece of earth.

A night at the Rock View Lodge costs $180.00. This included food, a swimming pool, and a guide for the day’s activities. Therefore, I was paired with Lesslyn, a young Amerindian girl, who took me up the Panorama Nature Trail.

Guyana savannah hawks

Guyana Rupunini savannah- Appropriately named Savannah hawks

It was about a twenty minute walk from the Lodge to the trailhead. On the way there we saw some savannah hawks on small trees that used the perch to see for miles. It was scorching hot in the open savannah with nary a tree to provide cover from the relentless sun. Even the asses were hot.

Hot Guyanese asses

Hot Guyanese asses in the Rupunini Savannah

That is until we hit the Panorama Nature Trail. The trail went straight up and straight down the largest hill within miles. Not only was it the largest hill in the area, it was tree covered giving respite from the sun. It felt great to get in the shade.

Green jacamar

I was not the only person happy to be in the forest. A few birds called this area their home. One was a green jacamar. I had seen one of these in Trinidad & Tobago, so I was familiar with the long sharp beak. This one was multi colored and stayed to pose for pictures.

Green jacamar Guyana

Guyana Rupunini savannah- Green Jacamar along the Panorama Nature Trail

At the top of the trail was a campsite with a fire ring. I wished I could have camped up here and had a fire as it looked inviting. The top also had a phenomenal view of the Rupunini Savannah. The savannah is not a pretty place in the dry season as it is hot and dry, but from this vantage point it was not so bad.

Guyana Rupunini Savannah

Rupunini Savannah from atop the Panorama Nature Trail

Rupunini Savannah

No asses in this view of the Rupunini

Rock View Lodge pool

We then walked down and back into the heat. One of the redeeming aspects about the $180.00 stay at Rock View was the pool. I took advantage of this after the hike up the Panorama Nature Trail.

Rockview Lodge Pool

The Rock View Lodge pool is an oasis in the Rupunini

Rock View Lodge is a cool place and a great stop over on the way towards more adventurous places, but I was a little disappointed it was not closer to the rainforest. I made the best of not an ideal situation by taking a trip into the Iwokrama Rainforest one day and hiking the Panorama Nature Trail the other day.

Rock View Lodge area a little disappointing

I would continue to make the best of it in the future, but I ended up leaving a day earlier than I had planned. There was not enough adventure in the vicinity and it was too expensive to venture out solo using the local guides.

I ended up spending $160.00 on my trip to the Iwokrama Rainforest and this was only for a half day. It was the same cost for multiple people, but I was the only tourist in the area, so I had to pony up the whole cost myself. Another option was to take a boat on the Rupunini River, but this would have been $200.00. On the Rock View Lodge website there is an option to rent a canoe for $40.00 and a guide for $20.00. I learned this canoe was sold, and they had not updated their website.

Panorama Nature Trail Guyana

Resting my ass during the Panorama Nature Trail hike

Guyana a little tres cher

Having traveled to many emerging countries around the globe, I was shocked at how expensive adventure was turning out to be in Guyana. The country was beautiful, but my decision to come to the Rupunini was a bad one.

When I visited Kaieteur Falls a couple of days later, I learned this is the place I should have flown into from the beginning and spent my entire time here. This was more my type of place. Once there the guides in the national park were much more reasonable since the place to explore was right out the front door instead of having to pay for a rented jeep with a driver and a guide to a place 30 miles away.

Kaieteur Falls Guyana

Kaieteur Falls is where I should have spent my time

Enjoyed my stay despite the lacking adventure

Despite the fact that I erred in my research on the optimal place for Guyana adventure, I enjoyed the Rupunini, the people, and Rock View Lodge. I made the best of my overpriced two days of adventure and managed to have a good time. When you travel things don’t always go your way. You can either pout and feel like an ass or hike a Panoramic Nature Trail. I always take the hike option.

Adventure on!

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